Eyes open

I flew into Amsterdam this afternoon and though the experience is overwhelming already (So many people! So many bikes! So many canals!) I have settled into a Northern neighbourhood for the night and enjoyed the afternoon simply walking and watching and listening.

I am struck with the immense network of narrow alleyways, every one neatly laid with red brick, vines crawling the walls and little boxes under the windows filled with heather and the like. Each building face different, rising high into the sky. They seem taller than they are, perhaps thanks to the narrow roadways. I’m not sure if the cyclists here are more dangerous, or the cars, or the many buses. They all speed by so quickly and with such confidence, that to be a pedestrian is a dangerous place to be indeed. For many streets the storefronts simply rotate between vintage clothing boutiques, cheese shops, and cafes. Despite my hunger, I was struck dumb with too many choices for pastries and treats - for a long while I didn’t pick up anything at all. Just stared in the windows and drooled.

After a time I found myself some delicious soft cheese, fresh bread, and a pistachio cannoli. Stood by a canal in the cold, with the pigeons and the rowboats, and scarfed it down. Followed some folks who held themselves in such a way, that I knew they must be local. Ended up in a bar tucked down a narrow alley, barely wide enough to ride your bike, and yet, hosting a small patio umbrella and two tables and chairs. Cold or not, all the outdoor seating in the city is filled. There are people eating and drinking everywhere.

It is a special experience to explore a new city on your own. I sit and drink my beer and catch snippets of the conversations next to me - a young man confiding in his friend about unrequited love. A woman nervous about signing a pre-nuptial agreement and getting married for the third time. A crowd of young people laughing. The woman at the end of the table holding court as she tells an elaborate story - speaking with her hands. It’s very raw, to witness families gathering around food, friends gathering around drinks, and passionate lovers fiercely embracing in the street. Eyes open.

Next week I take the train to Tuscany to build a kiln in the hills. But for now, I eat, and watch, and listen. Notice.